Holds and Route Grades are a vital part of our indoor climbing sessions, whether you are a complete beginner or looking to work on a specific climbing technique or skill.
The Main Hold Types
Holds can be of many different shapes and sizes, and all demand different grip styles. For beginners, large uncut ‘Jugs’ are perfect for learning the basics of climbing. Crimps are small holds that are usually used by more advanced climbers, and are climbed using just the fingertips. Slopers are very flat holds, and require climbers to use their palms as well as their body position to hold them. Pinches are similar to slopers, but are climbed by pinching with the thumb and fingers together. Pockets are holds that have holes in, and are climbed by hooking one or two fingers into them.
How Colour-Coding Works
Many Climbing Walls use colour coding for routes on the wall. This will mean that for a particular route, all holds on the wall will be of a single colour. Hold colour can indicate a grade range for routes on the wall and a key to the colours and grades can be found at the reception desk or at the entrance to the climbing area.
Bouldering Grades Explained
Bouldering holds and route grades within UK indoor climbing gyms generally are rated using the Fontainebleau (Font) system for bouldering. The beginner is typically able to complete a first ascent on Font 4/5 boulders, whilst the more intermediate climber is expected to be able to complete routes up to Font 6A after several months of regular climbing. UK climbing award schemes are generally recognised across the country and have a rough guide to the progression for climbing outdoors using the Font system.
Roped Route Grades
Roped routes on walls use French sport climbing grades (e.g. 5a, 5b, 5c, 6a). New climbers can complete most moves on 5a to 5c routes, and expect to be able to complete most moves on 6a routes after a few months of regular climbing.
Using Grades to Progress Sensibly
Choose climbs where you can do most of the moves but there is one part that is really tricky for you. If you return to the same grade of climb over a few sessions and find that you are able to complete most of the moves then it is time to move on. Climbing at the useful part of a grade is far better for your development than repeating the same section time and time again before slowly improving.
Having a grasp of the hold types and route grades is crucial to having productive climbing sessions. Knowing your grades takes the uncertainty out of choosing a route to climb and gives you a good indicator of how your climbing is progressing.